Weather puts a damper on wine-grape ripening
Source: Â Statesman Journal
Cold. Damp. Not good.
Those poor little grapes are still hanging out there, and they’ve already endured more than a week of cool, moist weather in mid- September.
Even Eastern Washington’s wine country got some ill-placed rain. Though I hope by the time you read these words that those same grapes will have bathed for a couple of days in sunny, above-average temperatures.
All of this is to say that we’re getting close to another harvest throughout the Northwest. From 1998 pretty much through 2004 — a stretch now referred to as the drought years — the Willamette Valley enjoyed unrivaled harvests, dominated by warm, dry weather. Then in 2005 we had some tough, tense, rain-pocked moments. And now it looks like we’re in for the same this year.
And that’s OK. We’re back on track for a typical vintage. I’ll be honest: Despite the nail-biting effects of years like these, vintages such as 2005 offer more typical, and usually superior, wines than those hot, unblemished years.
So while we wait out another one, let’s celebrate with a range of wines from around the Northwest, including some from the neighborhood, and all from 2005.
Beginning with a joyous little trifle, the Covey Run, 2005 Columbia Valley Gewürztraminer, $8 (distributed by Columbia). It’s light, refreshing and, most importantly, delivers taste, big time. It has a lemony, floral nose, with flavors of litchi and citrus and a bit of sweetness, all so light on the palate that you may need a straw.
Think in a world gone “Sideways” you can’t find a decent Oregon pinot noir for less than $15? Think again.
From Salem comes the Evesham Wood, 2005 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, $14 (self-distributed). Here is a most approachable and, I don’t think it an insult to say, entry-level pinot.
This blood-red wine starts with wonderful plum, cherry and floral aromas. And despite it being softly textured, it’s flowing with deep flavors. Intense plum and cherry are backed up by subtle flavors of blackberry, earth and mushroom, all bound together by a nice touch of acidity.
From another side of Salem comes the Ankeny, 2005 Hershey’s Red Pinot Noir, $17 (self-distributed), and two more different pinots could not square off against one another.
Lighter in color, more lean and austere in style, this one is dominated by spice in both smell and taste. A perfume of cinnamon and tart berries greets the nose, leading into intriguing flavors of strawberry, raspberry and that racy background of cinnamon. There are pronounced, but not rough, tannins.
From a winery hunkered down in Salem’s industrial complex comes the St. Innocent, 2005 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Blanc, $18 (self-distributed). Think that’s a little steep for a pinot blanc? It is. But oh, is it worth it!
Generally we think of pinot blanc as a simple, light wine, something to sip while waiting for something bigger to come along. But this is a surprisingly weighty, substantial wine.
It comes at you with aromas of citrus and fresh flowers, then boom, lands on your tongue like a load of bricks (I’m guessing there’s been some skin contact). Apple flavors dominate, but there also are complex notes of citrus, melon and earth.
Good acidity makes for an excellent food wine. Think chicken or shrimp.
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